The appellation was recognised on 8 December 1936. It covers Vouvray, Rochecorbon, Vernou-sur-Brenne, Noizay, Chançay, Reugny, Parçay-Meslay and part of Tours. In Sainte-Radegonde, a former village now within the city, Saint Martin founded the abbey of Marmoutier in 372, and legend says he brought the vines. Montlouis-sur-Loire, facing Vouvray across the river, is a separate appellation.
The area is a plateau between 85 and 110 metres high, cut by small valleys and ending in a cliff above the Loire. Its base is a soft chalk called tuffeau, topped by clay with flint, and the vines grow on the valley slopes and the edges of the plateau. Growers dug cellars into the tuffeau, and these cool, steady cellars suited the making of sparkling wine. Sparkling Vouvray takes its bubbles in bottle and ages there at least 12 months before release.
Chenin Blanc ripens late, and Vouvray lies near the climatic limit for growing it, so each vintage shapes the wine. Dry wines are made every year. When the autumn allows, grapes shrivelled on the vine or touched by noble rot give sweet wines. A dry still Vouvray must show the word sec, meaning dry, on its label. Young wines smell of acacia, rose and citrus, then turn towards quince and honey. The wine board gives Vouvray ten years or more.
Domaine du Clos Naudin, held by the Foreau family since 1923, farms Chenin Blanc on mid-slope parcels. It makes its sweeter wines only in years when the grapes ripen far enough on their own.
The wines above are the Vouvray wines in the cellar. See also Chinon, west of Tours, Saumur, where Chenin also grows on tuffeau, Coteaux du Layon for sweet Chenin from Anjou, or all our Loire Valley wines.