The reference appellation of the southern Rhône, and the first in France to codify its own rules, in 1923. Thirteen varieties are permitted, though Grenache leads almost every blend, with Mourvèdre and Syrah behind it.

Soils run from the famous rolled galets to sand and limestone, which is why estates a few hundred metres apart taste nothing alike. Neighbouring Gigondas and Vacqueyras work the same grapes on cooler, higher ground.